I have one month, starting and ending in Bangkok. I want to use most of my time to travel through Laos from north to south, and perhaps end my holiday with a few days on a Thai island, depending on how much I like 4000 islands or not (if I find that relaxing and fun I might stay there and head straight to Bangkok).
But I am having trouble deciding how / where to start... people have told me to go to Huay Xai and take a boat to Luang Prabang. But I am also interested in Nam Ha / doing some trekking.
What would be more practical?
A. Bangkok - Huay Xai - Luang Prabang - Nam Ha - backtrek to Luang Prabang or do a loop through northeastern Laos?
B. Bangkok - Huay Xai - Nam Ha - Luang Prabang > would I miss out much by not doing that boat trip?
C. Bangkok - Vientiane (I really like trains!) - Vang Vieng (depending on whether I can cope with it) - Luang Prabang - Nam Ha - loop back through northeastern Laos, or...?? Would I miss anything by skipping that Huay Xai corner of the country?
Any other suggestions and highlights welcome, i.e. itinerary suggestions, suggested stops along the way from Bangkok to Laos, highlights or hidden gems in Laos.
Thank you!
Lisa
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No, you don't miss much not doing the two boring days on the slow boat; there are better boat trips anyway.
Like trains?
Train Bkk-Vinetiane
Then Vang-Vieng-Luang Prabang-boat trip Nam Ou to Nong Khiaw - Muang Ngoi-back to Nong Khiaw-Xam Neua-Phonsavanh -direct to Pakxan (buses dry season only)-ViengKham-Nahin/Khonglor-Thakek-Savn'ket-Pakse-Champasak-4000islands; then back into Thailand, by bus to Ubon Ratch, by train back to Bangkok.
Gets you away from the pancake trail a bit. (to be continued)
Perhentian Islands
Someone had recommended the Perhentian Islands to me and had raved about the place, so I was keen to check it out. I was blown away; I have never seen water so clear as I did in the Perhentians, nor sand so white. You could see tens of metres down, and it was as hot as bath water in the shallows. Prime scuba/snorkel terroritory, on a long snorkel trip I was lucky enough to spot a shark and a giant turtle surfacing. On the beach every night, the locals cook up today's catch and you can eat barbequed fish (plenty of choice). The only downer about the whole place was that beer was scarce and pricey, and it wasn't the best quality, but this is due to Malaysia's Muslim majority supporting a government that whacks up tax on alcohol (as well as the locals not wanting to have much to do with it due to their beliefs, understandably). I highly recommend the Perhentians for a visit.
Mount Kinabalu
Climbing Mount Kinabalu was right up there with the best experience of my whole year-long round the world trip, and I would strongly recommend attempting the climb, as it's very accessible. The best advice I can give is for you to take your time when planning. Make sure you have sturdy shoes, a headtorch, gloves, warm jacket and trousers, food and drink. The first climb up to Laban Rata at 3,300 metres is fine; you then stay overnight (accommodation is sparse, and MUST be booked in advance) and get up at 2 or 3am (ouch!) for a climb in the dark up to the summit ahead of the dawn which you watch from 4,000 metres. The climb is a fair challenge, and you may start to feel the effects of altitude sickness, but it's well worth it to see the sun rise at 13,000 feet. It's not an experience I will forget in a hurry.
Harold
Kuala Lumpur
KL Sentral train station highlights the economic differences between Malaysia and Thailand. It's a sparkling, clean place, all modern digital timetable boards and metallic corners, and makes poor old Hualampong look in dire need of a spring clean. I enjoyed wandering around KL's Chinatown, which has lots of decent food stalls where you can buy various deep fried delicacies for no money at all as well as sit down and munch on a proper Chinese meal. Little India was also a great experience, with its colourful night markets and vast array of eating options. And of course, the Petronas Towers are a marvellous sight that defines the whole city. Overall, though, I must say I found the city less engaging than Bangkok.
Cameron Highlands
Up in the hills, the Cameron Highlands are an old British colonial settlement. The temperature up there is far more palatable than the searing heat of KL. You'll need a jumper! It's good tea-growing country, and there are many plantations you can visit to drink a lovely fresh brew. There are plenty of decent walks, too, clearly signposted, which will take you through forests and past quaint rose gardens. The Cameron Highlands were further evidence of the vast diversity of Malaysia.
Harold
(to be continued)
some of my personal favourite places in Malaysia. I must admit - I knew very little about Malaysia before I decided to visit, and I was fascinated when I found out about its diverse ethnic mix. As a more-than-developing, but not-quite-developed (compared with the Western notion of the term) country, I hadn't realised that it was a secular Muslim nation of ethnic Malays, as well as having sizeable minorities of Chinese and Indians too, all painted against a backdrop of recent British colonial history. This was a place worth checking out.
Penang
Penang was my first experience of Malaysia, travelling down from Hat Yai in Thailand on the train to the transport hub of Butterworth. The train was very late, seemingly hanging around at the border for a good hour, and I later learned that the underside of trains were (still are?) commonly scanned for bombs due to Islamic insurgency in the south of Thailand. Penang had all the elements I had read about: a Chinatown, cinemas offering Bollywood spectaculars, huge British colonial buildings, and little Malay restaurants serving up nasi goreng and other delicacies. Above all else, it had a relaxed, gentle, even affluent feel after so many months in Thailand. I only had enough time for a few hours' stop before continuing my journey, but I have since returned and find it a very pleasant destination that's well worth a stop-off when travelling between Thailand and southern Malaysia.
(to be continued)
Harold photos: Janin
